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Crop Nº 05Rosaceae (the rose family)

Apple

Malus domestica

A wild fruit of the Tian Shan, crossed with Europe's crab apple, and kept ever since by grafting. Every Granny Smith is a piece of one tree.

The apple's main ancestor is a wild tree of the mountains of Central Asia, whose fruit was large before anyone farmed it. Carried west, it crossed with the small sour crab apple of Europe.

An apple pip does not grow into its parent, so every named apple is a single seedling, copied by grafting for as long as people care to. A handful of those trees are in the ancestry of most apples sold today.

2
wild parents, at the least
3.6×
heavier than its wild ancestor, in one orchard
97.9 M
metric tons grown in 2024
52%
of them grown in China
  • almaTurkic languages, apple
  • mêlonAncient Greek, an apple, or any tree fruit
  • malumLatin, an apple, quince, peach or other fleshy fruit
  • æppelOld English, an apple, and fruit in general
  • Poma CostardLatin of an English account, 1292, the Costard, an apple sold by name

The apple is the work of people whose names are mostly lost: those who carried it out of Central Asia, the grafters who kept each good tree alive, and the people who noticed a seedling worth keeping, among them Mary Ann Brailsford, Maria Ann Smith and Jesse Hiatt.

13 chapters · 102 sources

Numbers open the source. Their color shows how settled the claim is:Established Supported Contested

Long before farming

A forest of apples

The wild apple was already big before anyone planted one.

The wild apple itself: a branch pressed in Kazakhstan in 1989, on one of the collecting trips to the apple forests. Collected by C. Sperling, H. Aldwinckle and E. Dickson; photographed by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Malus sieversii, herbarium specimen K004256752, collected 12 September 1989. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Herbarium. CC BY 4.0. Resized.

In the mountains of Central Asia, mostly in south-eastern Kazakhstan, grows a wild apple, Malus sieversii. It is the main ancestor of every apple in the shops.

Its fruit is not what a wild fruit is supposed to be. Some trees bear apples 7 or 8 cm across, larger than any other wild apple. Genome studies find that apple fruit grew in two steps, and that the first came before people. A stretch of DNA linked to bigger fruit was already common in the wild trees.

Why a wild tree should make so large a fruit is not known. One idea is that it fed big animals, which carried the seeds away. Nobody has yet shown which animals.

The botanist Nikolai Vavilov reached Alma-Ata, now Almaty, in 1929, at ripening time. He judged the forests around it a center of origin of the apple.

34 mm · 16 g
Average wild fruit, 210 trees in the Ili valley
57 g
Average wild fruit, a Canadian collection
72%
Wild trees with sour or very sour fruit
From the Stone Age

Gathered and dried

Across Europe and the Near East, people ate the small wild apples they had.

Europe had an apple of its own, the crab apple Malus sylvestris: round, yellow-green and 2 to 3 cm across. Thousands of apple seeds have come from Stone Age and Bronze Age sites across Europe, tens of thousands from the lake villages of Switzerland alone. In Ireland, a store of dried crab-sized apples charred when a Neolithic house burned down.

None of this shows farming. A wild pip and a garden pip look the same, and where whole fruit survives it is of crab-apple size.

At Ur, in southern Iraq, six apples were cut in half, threaded on a string and dried, then left in a royal tomb. They are most likely a small wild apple of the Caucasus and Anatolia, and no proof of orchards. Even their date is given two ways, a thousand years apart.

20–43 mm wide
Wild crab apples measured in Romania
6
Apples on the string at Ur
Undated; perhaps 4,500 to 2,400 years ago

The road west

The genes say the apple traveled. The ground has kept almost no trace of it.

Somehow the big apple of the Tian Shan reached Europe. Its DNA points to the Kazakh side of the mountains, not to the wild apples of Xinjiang, and to a journey west along the trade roads later called the Silk Road.

When is another matter. Genetic papers often say 4,000 to 10,000 years ago, a range borrowed from older writing. There is no sign of farming in the Tian Shan before about 4,500 years ago. And the homeland has given archaeologists just one possible apple seed, from the village of Tuzusai, about 400 BCE.

An apple tree takes years to bear, so there has not been time for the slow change seen in cereals. One reading is that nobody bred the apple at all in the usual sense. People moved trees, the trees crossed, and the best seedlings were kept by cloning.

4–10
Years before a seedling first fruits
1
Possible apple seeds found in the Tian Shan
Undated; after the apple reached Europe

A second parent

In Europe the newcomer crossed with the crab apple. How much, nobody agrees.

The apple that reached Europe met the crab apple there, and the two crossed. A modern apple's genome is a patchwork of both.

How much is crab apple depends on who is counting, and how: 21% in one study, 25 to 37% in another, about 61% in a third. In 30 of 43 apples sequenced, the DNA passed down the mother's line is the crab apple's. One team credits the Asian parent with size and the European one with firmness and flavor.

Other wild apples left less. The Caucasian crab apple's share is weak or cannot be told from the Asian parent's, and the Siberian crab left little mark on mainstream varieties.

Unlike a cereal, the apple lost little variety on the way. It cannot fertilize itself, it breeds slowly, and grafting kept old trees in play.

◂ The family tree is beside this text. Point at a form to trace its line.

21% to 61%
Crab apple share of the genome
3.6× heavier
Cultivated apples against wild, in one orchard
43% and 68% less
The same: acid and bitter phenolics
About 424 BCE to 300 CE

The cut that keeps a tree

A pip gives a new apple every time. Grafting gives the same one forever.

Grafting in an American farmyard, drawn by Winslow Homer in 1870, more than two thousand years after the first Greek account. The tree is not named as an apple. Winslow Homer, Spring Farm Work: Grafting, from Harper’s Weekly, 1870. The Cleveland Museum of Art (1942.1297). CC0 1.0. Resized.

Sow the pips of a good apple and the seedlings will not match it, or each other. The only way to have the same apple twice is to cut a twig from the tree and join it to the roots of another.

The earliest account that can be checked is Greek, from about 424 BCE. Its writer already knew that a grafted tree bears the fruit of the twig, not of the stock. Theophrastus described sealing the join with bark, mud and hair.

Roman farm books treat it as routine. Cato told his reader when to graft apples. Columella and Pliny list apples by name, the Matian, the Scaudian, the honey-apple, and Pliny credits several to the men who first grafted them. From then on an apple could have a name, because it could outlive its first tree.

about 424 BCE
Earliest checkable account of grafting
a mosaic of the 200s CE
Oldest sure picture of grafting
Antiquity to 1504

A fruit called fruit

For most of history the word for apple meant any fruit at all.

Dürer’s Adam and Eve, 1504. By his time the fruit of Genesis, which the text never names, was drawn as an apple. Albrecht Dürer, Adam and Eve, 1504. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (accession 19.73.1). Public domain. Resized.

Old texts are full of apples that may not be apples. Greek mêlon meant an apple or any tree fruit, and with a word added it meant a quince, a citron or a peach. Latin malum and pomum were as loose. Homer's orchard of Alcinous has "apple trees", but the word cannot prove the fruit.

English was the same. Old English æppel meant an apple and also fruit in general. Related words run through the Germanic, Celtic, Baltic and Slavic languages, and across the Turkic languages the word is alma.

The city of Almaty is often said to be named for it. Vavilov translated Alma-Ata as "father of apples". The reading is disputed.

About 1200 to 1700

Apples with names

Pearmain, Costard, Reinette. A named apple is one tree, grafted down the centuries.

English records name apples early. A Norfolk holding of about the year 1200 owed its rent in Pearmains and Pearmain cider, and in 1292 the fruiterers' bills of Edward I list Poma Costard, at a shilling a hundred. Its sellers gave English the word costermonger.

A name lasts because grafting lasts. The same tree can be kept for centuries, which is why DNA can now find the parents of very old apples. A study of 1,425 of them found one old French apple at the center of the web: Reinette Franche, on record by 1540. It, Margil and the Russian apple Alexander lie behind nearly half the varieties in that study's family tree.

A small tree mattered too. The dwarf "Paradise" apple, first mentioned in print in 1472, was used as a rootstock to keep grafted trees small.

◂ Each dot beside this text is one tree, copied by grafting ever since. Point at a variety to trace its parents.

243
Descendants of Reinette Franche among 775 apples
a shilling a hundred
Price of Costards in 1292
79 of 119
Recorded parentages that DNA confirmed in full
About 1630 to 1871

Pips across the oceans

Settlers took pips and grafts. Some orchards they found already planted.

Roxbury Russet, counted among the oldest American apples, painted in 1898. Deborah Griscom Passmore, Malus domestica: Roxbury Russet (POM00000502), 1898. U.S. Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection, Rare and Special Collections, National Agricultural Library, Beltsville, MD 20705; file from the Wikimedia Commons copy of the library’s scan. Public domain. Cropped to the sheet and resized.

Apples crossed the Atlantic with the first English settlers. Later Boston histories give William Blackstone an orchard there before 1630, and by 1647 apples were being grafted in Virginia. The Roxbury Russet, from Massachusetts, is counted among the oldest American kinds.

At the Cape, the Dutch sowed apple pips in 1652 and picked their first two ripe apples ten years later.

Native people took up the tree as well. When the Continental army marched through the Seneca and Cayuga towns in 1779, its reports spoke of apple and peach orchards heavy with fruit. The army destroyed them.

In Chile, Darwin found Valdivia "buried in a wood of apple-trees". And China, which had grown soft apples of its own for centuries, first grew the modern kind at Yantai in the late 19th century.

about 2,500
Apple trees in one Virginia orchard in 1686
nearly 10,000 barrels
Cider made by one village near Boston in 1726
1801 to 1845

Orchards from seed

On the American frontier most apple trees were seedlings, and John Chapman liked them that way.

Cider making on Long Island, painted in 1840–41, in the last years of John Chapman’s life. William Sidney Mount, Cider Making, 1840–41. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (accession 66.126). Public domain. Resized.

In the early settlement of New York, most farm orchards were seedlings, with only some trees worked over to named kinds. A settler in Ohio could be required to plant fifty apple or pear trees within three years to keep his land.

John Chapman supplied them. An account of 1871 has him in Ohio by 1801 with a horse-load of seed gathered from the cider presses of Pennsylvania, planting nurseries ahead of the settlers. The same account says he held that seed was the only proper way to raise an apple, and called grafting wickedness.

So his trees were lotteries. The fruit of a seedling orchard was unpredictable, and much of it fit mainly for cider. Out of such orchards, now and then, came a seedling worth a name.

50 apple or pear
Trees a settler had to plant to keep Ohio Company land
1845 or 1847
Chapman's death, in two accounts
About 1809 to 1914

Found, not made

The famous apples of the 1800s were accidents that somebody noticed.

Golden Delicious, painted in 1934, twenty years after it went on sale. Mary Daisy Arnold, Malus domestica: Golden Delicious (POM00002074), April 1934. U.S. Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection, Rare and Special Collections, National Agricultural Library, Beltsville, MD 20705; file from the Wikimedia Commons copy of the library’s scan. Public domain. Cropped to the sheet and resized.

About 1809 Mary Ann Brailsford sowed some pips in a cottage garden in Southwell, Nottinghamshire. One became Bramley's Seedling. The tree is still alive. In 1811 John McIntosh found a seedling in an overgrown orchard in Upper Canada.

Granny Smith came up by a creek near Sydney, where Maria Ann Smith had thrown out some rotting apples, by a memory written down in 1924. Golden Delicious was a seedling spared by a boy mowing a West Virginia pasture, about 1891 by his own later telling. The nursery that bought it is said to have paid $5,000, or $50.

Nobody chose the parents of these apples. DNA has since found some of them: Golden Delicious is a child of Grimes Golden, and Cox's Orange Pippin of Margil. Records were often wrong. Of 119 old parentages checked, DNA confirmed both parents for 79.

◂ Each dot beside this text is one tree, copied by grafting ever since. Point at a variety to trace its parents.

1,856
Varieties named in two American lists by 1869
28
Direct offspring of Golden Delicious in one DNA pedigree
1894 to 2018

The reddening of the Delicious

One tree in Iowa became the most planted apple in the world, and changed color on the way.

Delicious in 1905, eleven years after it was named: striped, and rounder than the apple sold under the name today. Amanda Almira Newton, Malus domestica: Delicious (POM00002061), 4 February 1905. U.S. Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection, Rare and Special Collections, National Agricultural Library, Beltsville, MD 20705; file from the Wikimedia Commons copy of the library’s scan. Public domain. Cropped to the sheet and resized.

Jesse Hiatt of Peru, Iowa, found a seedling in his orchard, by one account after cutting it down twice. He called its apple Hawkeye. In 1894 the Stark nursery bought the rights and renamed it Delicious.

That first apple was heavily striped. But a branch of an apple tree sometimes mutates, and a twig from it carries the change. Growers found redder branches, Richared in 1919 and Starking in 1921, and grafted from those. By 1986 more than 100 strains traced to Hiatt's tree, and it was called the most widely planted apple in the world.

In 1966 it was 36% of the American crop. Then it fell. Two accounts blame strains chosen for color that came weeks before the fruit was ready to eat. In 2018 Gala was forecast to pass it.

◂ The models beside this text are live. Drag to turn them.

36.1%
Share of the U.S. crop in 1966
253
DNA differences between one red strain and its sport
1872, 1880 or 1881
When Hiatt found the tree
1917 to 2017

Bred on purpose

In the twentieth century breeders began to choose both parents. They kept choosing the same ones.

In New Zealand, J. H. Kidd crossed Cox's Orange Pippin with Delicious in 1924. A seedling of that cross, crossed with Golden Delicious, gave Gala. In Japan a cross of Ralls Janet with Delicious, made from 1939, was named Fuji in 1962.

The same few parents came up again and again. A study of 1996 found five founders behind most modern apples: Cox, Golden Delicious, Delicious, Jonathan and McIntosh. Of the eight leading American apples, only Granny Smith has none of them in its recorded ancestry.

Records still went wrong. Honeycrisp, released in 1991, was written down as a cross of Macoun and Honeygold. DNA showed its parents were Keepsake and an unreleased seedling, MN1627, which is probably extinct.

The trees changed too. At East Malling in Kent, by 1917, the old dwarfing rootstocks had been sorted and numbered. On the ninth, now M.9, a tree stays half the usual height, and orchards went from about 100 trees a hectare to several thousand.

◂ Each dot beside this text is one tree, copied by grafting ever since. Point at a variety to trace its parents.

840 to 5,382
Trees per hectare, New York trials
16 of 21
Minnesota apples before 1991 with wrong or partial records
Today

The apple today

Half the world's apples are grown in China, and the wild forests are shrinking.

Fruit of 21 wild apple trees raised in New York from seed collected in Central Asia. No two wild trees bear the same apple. Peggy Greb, USDA Agricultural Research Service, ARS image D348-1, about 2006. USDA Agricultural Research Service, Image Gallery. Public domain. Resized.

The world grew 97.9 million metric tons of apples in 2024. China grew 52% of them, up from about 1% in 1961. Most of the apples planted in China are sports of one variety, Fuji.

The crop rests on few trees. In the American national collection, over half the varieties belong to one extended family, and Golden Delicious has the most close relatives. Packing houses hold fruit in low-oxygen stores for months, sometimes a year.

Variety survives in collections: about 5,000 kinds in the orchards at Geneva, New York, and nearly 2,000 at Brogdale in Kent.

The wild parent is in trouble. Malus sieversii was rated Vulnerable in 2009, with its Kazakh habitat reported down by more than 70% in thirty years. Orchard pollen reaches the forests, and of 463 "wild" trees in one seed bank, DNA found only 212 to be pure. Breeders now go back to those forests for resistance to disease.

97.9 M
Metric tons grown in 2024
1% → 52%
China's share, 1961 and 2024
17%
Gala, the leading U.S. apple, share of the 2024 forecast